Hi folks,

Last year I completely rebuilt my engine, I parked the bike over winter(heated garage) and took it out last weekend for a gentle first run and the did a few hundred kilometres the next day, all went perfectly. This morning tried to take her out and she would not start. Turned very heavily a few times and then got a nasty knock from the left side.

Pulled the plugs and pushed her 20 meters in gear and all was smooth, no knocking or clicking. Put the plugs back and then noticed that the clutch  lever was no longer completely disengaging the clutch, in neutral I can push the bike no problem, in gear with clutch lever in I can push but there is significant engine resistance.

I am thinking it's not goats as all is smooth if I push it in gear with plugs out. Goats should have constant interference from the broken magnets right?

Any ideas before I remove the left and right sides (in that sequence)?

Thanks

Brett




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Pull the front sprocket cover first and check the hookup of the clutch cable to the actuating lever.  I had that metal piece that makes the hookup in there break on one side years ago on my 97 GS and it acted like you describe.

When the bike is cold there will be resistance when pushing in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. The clutch plates are sticking together.

In neutral, the tranny completely disengages the output gears from the input.

You should always start in neutral unless the engine is hot.

Thanks gsjack, I hope it will be that simple. The fact it turns so heavily (addidasguy I always start in neutral so the heavy starting was not due to plates sticking) makes me think starter clutch gone is some way. Ho hum!


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So, last weekend started the bike and it ran perfectly. Today, the problem returned, so I have taken the left sprocket cover off, all is good there.
Taken off the left cover but can not remove the rotor bolt. I have the transmission in gear and luck the back brake but the clutch slips. Will need to get the proper tool

Is the clutch slipping pointing to worn plate or springs? It should not slip under those circumstances right?



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adidasguy shows how he holds crank from turning by sticking something in the starter gears to tighten that nut in this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GxS5yZ44AHU

I test clutch for slippage by holding the brakes tight and revving it up a bit and with tranny in gear let the clutch lever out slowly to see if it will kill engine.  But it seems to me your clutch shouldn't slip like you describe, clutch should have max engagement with the sprocket cover off.

Hi All,

I removed the rotor and found these marks, Definitely looks like it was spinning, does this look similar to what you guys saw?






I ground the tapers with valve grinding paste and it looked much better and I replaced it (with everything super cleaned up and spotless) and torqued the bolt to 130 NM (along with locktite medium strength).

It started last night but this morning it spun again.

Any other advice?

Should I locktite the taper as well as the rotor bolt?

Regards

Brett

Some more info, I have had to do the job twice. First time I did the valve grinding paste trick, put it back together and it started fine. Next cold morning- nothing rotor spun again with a nasty clunk as it recaught occasionally.
Opened it back up and the now very tight rotor bolt was a pain to get off. I used two tricks, one was putting cotton rope in the piston to lock the engine; the second was getting a vise-grip strap holder (vise grip with a chain) which was able to hold the rotor tight (I used the thick rubber strap from the crappy plastic/rubber tool which broke instantly when I put torque on it to protect the rotor from scratches. This arrangement also helps to hold the rotor to remove the 3 Allen screws)

I used the second tool as I was worried the string method could hurt the crank or big end bearings if all the torque was applied to them, probably overkill! Removing and tightening the rotor bolt with this arrangement was a breeze.

The main change in my second attempt was to use sandpaper to smooth the the crank an rotor tapers going PARALLEL to the crank , not around. And then using a very small amount of locktite 660 on the tapers.

Two things to remember, wrap some tape over the starter gear journal area of the crank to prevent damage while sanding, and remember that the end of the crank opens directly into the oil channels and any dirt that gets in there stays in there and probably blocks up an oil channel!!!!  Block it somehow during work and make sure it is clean afterwards.

I will test it as soon as the rain stops.


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Working like a bomb now!!!


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Bombs explode. make it work like something else Eh?, lol. as long as she does what shes sposed to do, then all is right with the world.